LAGOM - July 2024
Sonntag vegan cheeses, thrifting with care, skincare products against acne + pulse recipes
Hello, hello!
For this July iteration, we have a dense program. First, the interview of micro producer of vegan cheese in Aotearoa, Helena Teichrib, who talked up a storm with Amandine and is selling more than ever despite operating in a complex economic climate. (It is very good). We also refreshed two featured articles—fashion's topic with a guide on thrifting encompassing a list of fabrics to avoid and a skincare-related piece on a treatment regime against acne, including new product feedback. And finally, a list of pulses-packed recipes to uplift and load your diet with fibre and essential nutrients such as iron.
Not sure if you've been reading the news lately, but a lot of activists and peaceful protesters were arrested and/or strongly sentenced these past weeks. Amongst others, we are thinking of famous founding member of Greenpeace and Sea Shepherd, Paul Watson, who was arrested in Greenland following an International Red Notice initiated by Japan, issued in 2012 in retaliation for his actions at sea to disrupt hunting from Japanese whalers, or Roger Hallam, Daniel Shaw, Louise Lancaster, Lucia Whittaker De Abreu and Cressida Gethin, members of Just Stop Oil, who blocked a motorway in the UK for over 120 hours, and received record prison sentence for organising this nonviolent protest. And lest not forget those who gave their lives to defend our planet. Those are people more than concerned for others' futures, who decided to act and defend the voiceless and Nature, whose health is essential to our well-being as humans and society. Meanwhile, the likes of billionaires such as Elon Musk or Bill Gates, through their businesses and lifestyle, harm our way of living daily, yet they encounter no limits and even less punishment.
But who should be called an eco-terrorist? Those who fight for our survival or those who push us more into the catastrophe? What does it say of a political system led by disconnected chiefs of states, whose justice penalises and intends to tame those who alert us all from imminent danger? Are we living in an autocracy yet? And so, isn't it time to reframe our value metrics, as a society and as individuals, before it is too late? Yet, there are some reasons to remain hopeful. To be convinced that nothing can stop the path of time, of change. Also this stat—as little as engaging 3.5% of a population in protesting is enough to engage change at a political level. It doesn't take that much to participate in a movement for change.
Helena Teichrib, from vegan cheeses Sonntag
July was Vegan Cheese Month, and so it is the ideal time to publish our new conversation with Helena Teichrib. Earlier this year, we spoke with the creator of Sonntag, the fermented vegan cheese brand, about her professional upbringing, why and how she decided to create Sonntag, the world of dairy-free cheese, and the challenges of a one-woman food business. An insightful conversation on alternative foods and sustainable business.
Shopping second-hand and the fabrics to look for
We’ve been frequenting second-hand retail sites and consignment stores for years to purchase higher-quality clothing that we could not afford in the primary retail market. Buying second-hand almost always feels like sale season, but it’s possible to navigate it with order. The trick is to buy pieces you feel immediately connected to and then, second, check the fabric composition. There is always tension between natural fibres and the longevity of synthetics. Here, we list the fibres to seek out when you are wanting to limit petrochemical fibres where possible.
Ingredients and products you need to fight acne
We all get acne to varying degrees, some much more than others, and it can be incredibly frustrating, especially when products do not yield the results you are hoping for. This product lineup centres around ingredients and formulations that calm your outermost layer, deflate any flare-ups, and minimise the aftereffects. This is Trace’s AM and PM must-haves—use it as inspiration or a starting point to create your own regime.
Eat your pulses
A curation of our favourite pulses-packed recipes to uplift your diet daily. Pulses, also called legumes, are essential for a balanced diet, providing protein and fibre for good health and transit. They are also rich in vitamins and minerals, such as iron, zinc, folate, magnesium and lysine, which improve body energy production and can help lower cholesterol. To get your ½ cup a day of pulses, learn how to cook lentils, perfect in salads, and chickpeas for hummus. Check out our sautéed frozen edamame and broad (fava) beans or beans and onions cooked in olive oil. We also have some classic salads, lentil potato or lentil and tempeh. All these recipes are ideal for meal prep and quickly putting together some lunch or dinner.
Amandine's edit
We inherited a terrible sofa bed in our current rental. We can't get rid of it, and in addition to being uncomfortable, it also looks awful. So what is left to do? Hide it! First, I covered it with a lovely Menizas d'Aire, made-in Portugal, waffle blanket gifted by my mom, and then I want to energise the whole with something more colourful, a visual statement. I purchased the woven throws from clr, the brand created by multimedia artist Talia Taxman in the US, popped into my Instagram feed. I straightway loved the bold patterns, fringes of the blankets and ethos of the brand. One is currently on its way.
I can't help it; I love clothing. Particularly shirts, oversised. Most of the ones I own are second-hand, yet occasionally, I like to invest in something new, but with intent. I am unsure how I found Chava Studio, but I had it saved in my folders and am now quite tempted by their offering. The shirts look nice and structured and hold themselves well. Olivia Villanti founded Chava Studio in 2020 in Mexico City, with the production made in collaboration with Gilly e Hijos, her in-law's textile business. Garments are made-to-order, which avoids unnecessary waste. It's the kind of brand I want to wear and see flourish.
Jade Kake's practice, Matakohe architecture + urbanism, was instrumental in the collaborative design of the new Whangārei Boys' High School campus, a project I was involved in while working in Aotearoa. So it is a pleasure to witness more of her work with ones of two other stellar indigenous practitioners, Raukura Turei, 2023 recipient of the Wirihana Leadership A+W Dulux Award, and Elisapeta Heta, ex-Architecture+Women co-chair (amongst many, many different roles and accolades) on Kaupapa Māori design for climate, are recognised outside of Aotearoa's borders. Their reflections on the subject related to Assemble Papers by writer Ataria Sharman are worth a read.
Trace's edit
I knew this was the case but had yet to start researching the subject to write about it, but this video explains why all your clothes are shittier now extremely well. Basically, clothing quality has reduced considerably, the result of private equity and the need to maximise shareholder wealth married with the ability of large corporations to access markets with non-existence labour and environmental protection laws to manufacture this clothing. If you’re partial to the odd high street purchase, this video might send you to Vestiaire Collective instead.
Maybe it is the freezing Melbourne temperatures, but the idea of recreating that scene in Mission Impossible Dead Reckoning Part One, where Tom Cruise runs through a thoroughly candle-lit palace in Venice sans Tom Cruise, and if you were to, you would go to Hall of Flame. The tapers are incredible, offered in a vast colour palette at various lengths. And if you are not convinced yet, visit their Instagram for the vibes. And when I thought the brand could not get any cooler, I realised they offer refills, literal buckets of SANDWAX™.
On my wishlist—the Universal Balm by Monastery. You can read more about the formulation here (no expense was spared). Sourcing the rarest and purest botanicals, Monastery products are formulated in small batches at the founders' studio in San Francisco. Currently sold out online on the brands' site, sign up for the restock if you are interested or seek out a retailer.
Thoughts, questions, you can always direct reply to these emails.
We look forward to hearing from you!
Tracey Creed & Amandine Paniagua
